6g schedule 40 smaw

any points on a 6g stick schedule 40 test.im mostly concerned about the root(6010)vertical up and hot pass(6010)vertical up?

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I read a lot of forums where other welders prefer a tighter gap and smaller land but just jam the rod in tighter.

but I like a 1/8" land and 1/8" gap.

I just pretend the puddle is a small nail and the rod is a small hammer and about once a second
I tap the nail ...

that amounts to a whip and pause with a once a second rhythm.

feather both sides of all tack welds with a grinder
when you are starting on a tack or when you have to stop, get a grinder and feather the end of the weld and then long arc about 3/4" from where you stopped to let the weld heat up before tightening the arc and resuming the root.

grind all bumps and high crowned areas before the hot pass.

increase amps by about 10 for the hot pass and really make sure to burn out any little bit of slag you left from the root.

steve bleile has some really good videos on stick welding.
you can get them at northerntool.com
just go there and search for welding dvd and you will see them...at about 25 bucks each, its a good spend.

also there is a video called " under the hood welding" that shows some 6010 pipe tests pretty well. just google it. or copy and paste this

http://www.weldingvideos.net/

welder/fabricator in need of a job.

by Joshua Chilson
(Vancouver, Washington United States)

My name is Joshua Chilson I am 22 years of age and i have several welding certifications and other training that has to do with the trade. I have all of my own tools and am willing to work. I look at things as what ever it takes kind of person so if your interested please give me a call or you can email me, thank you for your time and have a good day.

(360)609-6614
joshua.chilson@hotmail.com

Joshua Chilson
3409 NE 119th AVE. Vancouver, Washington 98682
(360) 487 - 0288 Joshua.Chilson@hotmail.com

Objective: Employment for long term full-time or part-time

Skills and Qualifications:
*Plasma cutting/gouging
*Certified Welder
*Oxyacetylene torch cutting/scarffing
*carbon arc gouging
*TWIC Card Holder
*SMAW-E7018 (all positions unlimited thickness)

Certifications:
*OSHA 10
*forklift operator (class 1, 4 and 5)
*AWS Certified SMAW-E7018 (all positions unlimited thickness)
*AWS Certified FCAW-Dual Shield (all positions unlimited thickness)
*Oregon Work Zone Traffic Control Flagler
*Certified Oregon State unarmed Security Officer

Experience and training:
Lions Pride LLC. May 29th 2010 to Sep. 11th, 2010
Moving, storage and delivery and
Mover Portland, Oregon Apr. 22nd, 2011 to June 16th, 2011
Pan Nesbitt, Owner
Job Description: Handling and moving customer?s household and personal belongings, white gloving items, putting up and taking down door pads, jam pads and floor protection, packing and unpacking 18' box truck and customers household and personal belongings and operating a forklift.
Dan Jones INC.
Fabricator Camas, Washington Nov. 23rd, 2009 to March 3rd, 2010
Dan Jones, Owner
Job Description: Single handedly manufactured conveyor truck trailer, making blueprints and reading blueprints, welding, grinding, painting, cutting steel (used band saw and oxyacetylene torch).
Instafab Company Inc.
Fabricators and Erectors
Welder/laborer Vancouver, Washington Aug. 10th, 2009 to Sep. 25th, 2009
Chris Waterman, Supervisor
Job description: Lots of manual labor, operating scissor lifts, welding, rotor hammering, rebar drilling, steel assembly, reading blueprints, installing cement treads.
AJ's Automotive
Jim Foster, owner Vancouver, Washington Nov. 1st, 2007 to Nov. 30th, 2008
*manager - supervised employees, filed invoices, wrote estimates, checked work prior to returning vehicle to owner
*Auto Tech - troubleshoot engines, transmissions, suspensions, performed body work
*Lube Tech - Changed oil and oil filters
Tongue Point Job Corps Center
Student trainee, welding vocation Astoria, Oregon Aug. 19th, 2008 to Apr. 3rd, 2009
David Curl, welding instructor
Completed qualified welding training:
*E6010 and E7018 welding rod, M.I.G. hard wire, dual shield, all in flat, vertical, and overhead positions;
*Received AWS Certification in E7018 in vertical up and overhead, min. 1/8-unlimited thickness;
*received AWS Certification in dual shield in vertical up and overhead, min. 1/8-unlimited thickness;
*Experience with T.I.G. on iron;
*Experience with nickel rod on cast iron;
*Experience with aluminum wire;
*Used plasma cutter and oxyacetylene torch to cut out silhouette patterns;
*Completed many class projects independently and as a team member;
*maintained clean, organized and safe work environment.

Education:
Tongue Point Job Corps: Advanced Vocational Completion
Astoria, Oregon Aug. 19th, 2008 to Apr. 3rd, 2009
Tongue Point High School Program: High School Diploma
Astoria, Oregon Dec. 15th, 2008 to Mar. 31st, 2009
Educational Service District 112: GED
Vancouver, Washington Apr. 1st, 2006 to May 30th, 2006

argon mix for mild steel

what gas mix do you use for mild steel tig...

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I dont use a mix...just pure argon.

same for stainless and aluminum.

for thicker aluminum, i use a helium argon mix about 50/50 or as high as 80 percent helium.

mixes like the standard 75/25 argon/co2 mix used for mig welding, do not work well for tig welding.

Welding with 3/16 rods

by Josh
(Baytown Texas USA)

How to cap with 3/16 7010 rods on pipe about 3o'clock and down.

---------------------------
I am not much help on this one but maybe some other pipeline welders will chime in with some tips.

I have not known many welders who can do it good and consistently. Too much puddle, gravity, surface tension, etc. makes it questionable as to whether its even good practice. (I know its often done and encouraged because of production) I realize you are asking about downhill welding but just for example, Some codes dont even allow using 3/16" rods for uphill pipe...at least not without special qualification tests.

Retired Journeyman Welder

by David
(Addison, NY)

I have always used offhand grinding for my tungsten sharpening. The only time I didn't was when I got curious about a chemical system for sharpening tungstens that I used back in the early 1980's. I don't remember what the stuff was called but it was used by heating the tungsten and dipping it in to the chemical until the desired point was achieved. It was useful at times but it was more trouble than it was worth as it appeared to contaminate the tungsten with some of it's constituent components. It also never really got the tungsten as sharp as I like mine. It didn't have the drawbacks of conventional grinding, but it came with it's own complicated baggage that made it more of a novelty than a useful tool for me. This is only my opinion and does not reflect poorly on the product.

I think one of your contributors also commented on this product. He calls it Chem-Sharp and if my memory serves me right, I think this is what I used as well.

Thanks

----------------------

good post...

I am sure there are several different makers of the product, but what I have used is called Chem Sharp.

The fumes are what I hate. along with the residue that it leaves on the tungsten.

I'm looking for a writting test for tig welding!

Need a cheap welding/cutting table?

by Ray Pilgrim
(Saint Paul Park, Minnesota)

Try an old burned out gas or charcoal Barbecue Grill. (You know the one your neighbor shoves out to the street with the free sign on it) Makes a great little practice table for use in the garage and controls sparks easily enough. You may want to take the top off for welding ease but you can also preheat small parts if you need to if the thing still works...........

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A few tips and a word of caution from old jody...

clean up the grate with a grinder where parts will come in contact and attach the ground directly to the grate so you will get a good ground.

get rid of the tank for safety sake. you can always hook one up for those rare preheats. and remove it while you weld.

309 on 1 inch carbon test plates

Portable Band Saw Stand

If you are having trouble watching this Video on a DIY portable band saw stand , click here to view it at Welding-TV.com

Today's video is about building a Portable band saw stand.

Swag Off Road makes a really good stand for both Milwaukee, and DeWalt portable band saws...Problem is I dont have either.

I was actually considering buying a used Milwaukee portable band saw to make this video, but then I remembered I was low on cash and I remembered my machinist friend has a Porter Cable "portaband" and he agreed to let me build a stand for it.

Its going to come in very handy for quick cuts of round stock and for small sheet metal pieces.

I found a whole bunch of different ideas at different forums for Milwaukee, DeWalt, and even Harbor Freight, but none for a Porter Cable....So I was left to my own devices.

But I like that just fine...That means I get to do some jerry rigging.

I didnt want a saw stand where I had to remove screws and replace the stock before using the saw as a portable band saw.

And the Porter Cable standard stop is only held by 2 small screws so I dindt want the stop to have to support the weight of the saw.

So I designed mine to act like a cradle where I can remove it and put it back in the stand with no muss or fuss.

Also, in an effort to mix things up and be able to talk about more things. I used TIG, MIG, and Stick.

* Building a Cradle type stand for a portable band saw

* Tig welding using a 309 ss rod for hot rolled steel,

* mig welding downhill and sideways

* and an example of why I like 6011 better than 6013 for stick welding with an AC buzz box.

I had some extra 1 1/2" square tubing as well as some 3/8" round bar scrap pieces so I figured that would have to do. The 1-1/2" 11 gauge sq tubing was overkill, but It didnt make any sense to go buy something specifically for this project because I am more concerned with function than looks or weight. ( and did I mention low on cash?)

In fact, the only thing I had to buy was some 3/8" thick weather stripping to act as a vibration dampener.

The Porter Cable portaband has a cast aluminum body with stiffener ribs cast throughout so to make a stand that used some type of clamping mechanism didn't seem like a good idea.

Cracking the aluminum body on my friends saw would really suck.

Also, I wanted a stand that would let me remove the saw and put it back quickly, time and time again.

So with all that in mind, I cut up a bunch of random pieces of 3/8" round stock because I kind of knew they would come in handy for tabs and stops.

Also, for the sake of the video, and to mix things up, I did some tig, mig , and stick.

19 volts and around 240 ipm of .035" wire speed makes for an amperage of around 120 and works good for .125" thick hot rolled steel all positions.75/25 argon/co2 gas set at around 25 cfh with er70s6

pushing, pulling, straight drag, series of cursive e's, scoot forward 1/4" and pause.....all kinds of different techniques can work...find what works for you and perfect it.

tig welding hot rolled steel projects like this sometimes go better using 309 stainless.

you kind find all kinds of discussions (more like pissing contests) on the merits or drawbacks of using 309 stainless for carbon steel.

I am definitely not saying its ok to use 309 in place of er70 tig wire for coded welds.

what I am saying is that 309 is specified often for welding carbon steel pipe to stainless steel pipe in power plants where the welds are subjected to pressure, stress, vibration, and lots of thermal cycles.

So...I am pretty sure will be ok for my portaband stand.

Its a portaband stand for crying out loud..not the "Jesus nut" on the Space Shuttle.

( fyi...thats the nut that holds all things together)

309 has lots of chromium and therefore will prevent bubbling and porosity for tig welding hot rolled. ...It works. Its more expensive than er70 tig wire but works great for joining stainless to carbon and can be used for lots of other applications.

( lots of maintenance type rods advertised as being able to weld most anything are very similar to 309 stainless...or 312)

For building this portable band saw stand project, I plugged in the old school Lincoln tombstone style AC buzz box . I could have used the Everlast Combo unit..its a really good stick welder, but I wanted to go "old school" and simple for the video...( and because there are still lots of folks who only have a AC buzz box to work with)

I thought I would try using some really small 1/16" stick rods to run a very small bead that would not warp the tubing.that turned out to be a bad idea. They didnt like the Tee joint. even though I ran them pretty hot.

This is why I like 6011 much better than 6013. Every now and then, 6013 rods leave a bed of slag down the middle of the bead.

for me, the puddle of a 6013 is much harder to discern than other rods, and if you weld too cold, or long arc, or hold your tongue on the wrong side of your mouth, you can wind up with the worm bead of slag in the middle of 2 beads and your pieces wont even be joined.

I ground out most of the 6013 weld and came back over it with 6011 ...much better.

Also, decided to make some quick downhill welds with the 6011 rods. 6011 rods work great for downhill.

Well, thats it for today...I hope you enjoyed the Video on making a portable band saw stand.

Normally, I would not use 3 welding processes...tig, mig, and stick to do a little project like this.

But it did give me more to bump my gums about.

I definitely would have migged it for the sake of speed and also for less distortion.

In my experience, sometimes, in fact, most of the time, short circuit mig warps and draws less than tig or stick. Especially when you can do quick downhill welds that dont have to be gorilla strong.

...and If you are wondering what the white thing is on my finger on the TIG shots,

click the picture below to find out.

x ray inspection

I just welded 6 v groove welds 3 with E11018 and 3 with flux core wire in the 2g 3g and 4g positions all are getting x rayed in hopes for my employment.

I've never had to weld a v groove weld to get hired all my full pens have always been ut. From what I hear x ray is the hardest to pass my question is what are the allowances for discontinuity in a v groove weld?

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In this case, its probably AWS D1.1 code that holds the answers to you questions.

Different codes have different allowances for weld discontinuities.

But most codes do provide for allowances for subsurface defects, ( with the exception of cracks)

monel to 316l

by carl
(alabama)

How to TIG weld monel tubing to 316L tubing without filler metal? And without centerline cracking?

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I am not sure its possible without filler...and from an engineering standpoint, might not be fit for service.

Whats with everyone wanting me to run hardwire verticle?

by Ken

I have a coupon test later today, and the last 2 tests I have taken both wanted me to run hardwire vertical. I've been working the same job for 5 years and they would run people off for running downhill, let alone up.

Any tips for doing this?

Ken

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who knows why the sudden change in weld test requirements or details? It could be a new project that was evaluated by a welding engineer or analyst and it was determined uphill mig with bare wire was going to be used and therefor was going to be part of the weld testing requirements.

One of the main reasons bare wire mig is not used much for structural applications is because there are additional testing requirements according to AWS codes.

Flux core and Stick welding are deemed less likely to cold lap and therefore are acknowledged in AWS welding codes with pre-qualfied procedures. whereas all welding procedures are required to be tested and qualified with gmaw-s mig bare wire short circuit.

the technique boils down to correct settings, and staying on the leading edge of the puddle.

I made a video recently using 3/8" test plates with downhill root and uphill fill and cap.

hope it helps..

6g postion pipe

by daniel cole
(moline , il)

whats a good way to get a good fillet and cap on a pipe in the 6g position without moving the pipe.

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It really depends on the process...whether its tig , or stick, or mig or combination .

watch this video and it might help if its tig you are wondering about.

miller 251with 75/25

by Dean
(Or)

What formula do i use to set the voltage and also the wire feed speed, i am learning the machine but i don't know how to adjust when i have to weld vertical, can u help? I am mostly welding. 3/8", 1/2", some 5/8", track hoe bucket rebuilds and miscellaneous.

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One method to find good mig welding settings using a millermatic 251 is to use the chart on the inside of the panel door.

In my opinion, these settings are across the board about 10 % higher on wire speed than what I prefer....but its a good starting point.

for vertical welds, I find that choosing about 2 thicknesses less than what I am welding gives a pretty good setting ( minus the 10% )

The miller weld calculator seems to be about the same as the charts they use for the millermatic welders..

http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/calculators/mig_solid_amperage_calculator.php

is a good resource. but it is intended to be used for single pass horizontal fillet welds and the settings are pretty hot for anything but flat , horizontal, or downhill.

so what you can do for vertical uphill settings is select the thickness for about half of what you are welding and then use the weld calculator

for example, half of 3/8" is 3/16" so the settings for 3/16" using 75/25 with .035" bare wire are 18-19 volts and 320-340 ipm...that should work pretty well for vertical uphill on 3/8"...give or take. you may need 19-20 volts but its a good start.

once you get a good match of voltage and wire speed,, if its too hot or cold , just increase or decrease both voltage and wire to suit the heat you need.

Testing for CWB Weld inspector B31.3 - any pointers or tips

I am studying for the B31.3 CWB weld inspector test, this is a very in depth code, I am wondering if any one that has taken it can give me some advise.

Bob

16 gauge steel hard wire

How to weld 16 gauge steel with hard wire
---------------------------------------------------
thats a wide open question but here goes...

well the best gas to use with bare wire for 16 ga is probably 75/25 ar/co2

but co2 would work also.

downhill all the vertical joints and in fact any joint you can position to where it is slightly downhill will weld smoother.

.030" or .025" wire works best but .035" is still in the ball park and will work fine if you set it right.

depending on the machine, the voltage will probably be around 16-18

wire feed speed will depend on wire size used.

flow on the mig gun will also depend on the size of the nozzle and type of gas used but 25 cfh will probably get you going.

most mig welders these days come with some type of chart inside the wire spool panel.

those settings are usually a pretty good place to start.

er70s6 is the most common wire but er70s3 or 4 is fine also.

you may find that short runs of only a few inches help prevent warping.

what code book is mostly used for the structual and destructive examinations of structual certifications?

what code book is mostly used for the structural and destructive examinations of structural certifications?

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i think you might be referring to AWS B4.0
standard methods for mechanical testing of welds

miller hf251d-1

by wingnut
(sc)

can i hook up my miller hf251d-1 to my lincoln ranger 250 dc machine and still be able to tig aluminum, although the 250 is a strait dc machine, the hf251d-1 has a 115v ac power supply

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the short answer is no. there might be a few aluminum welds you could make using DC but its few and far between .

you really need AC with high freq.

virginia welder needs job

by karen
(berryville va )

i just relocated here in the Winchester area and need a job l have 30 yrs experience in welding alum. and stainless steel. Also have quality control experience. Im bored out of my mind someone send me some leads
mskarenroberts@yahoo.com

shedule 40 2g tig weld test

I have enormous amounts of mig experience.I took two classes and got certs for 2,3,4G in smaw and fcaw.Any clue or thoughts on how to approach a schedule 40 2G s.s. or other tig weld test?I am currently relocating to a new area and that is one of their "big deal passing"

-----------------------------------------

like anything, you will just need to get some seat time and practice.

having as much mig experience as you do, just getting an experienced hand to walk you thru the test will probably get you their quick.

if you have never done tig or stainless before, there are things that are very important that you will not automatically know.
like how to purge the inside, snipping the wire, etc. but it will taking doing it to understand and learn how.

these days, it can be tough finding a welding school that has stainless pipe on hand. But if you can get your own pipe, a local welding school might be an option.

How to Tig Weld Steel

This weeks video is Since last weeks video was building a stand for a Porter Cable Portaband, I thought maybe I would show how to tig weld end caps and feet on the stand.

I cut the end caps using the same portaband saw I was building a stand for.

Using a cheap dial caliper, I measured the inside diameter of the square tubing and added about .100" so that there would be some overlap. I cut all the end caps out of cold rolled 11 gauge sheet.

I like to tig weld outside corner joints. They are easy fun and sometimes do not even need any filler metal.

For this job, I used a little "trick" welding magnet tool called a MagTab.

Its made by Stronghand tools and you can get it from Amazon.com, Northern tool, Summit Racing, Airgas, and a bunch of other places.

I just checked on the price and while it was only about 10 dollars a year ago, The price of magnets has been rising so I think it costs about 13 dollars now.

It is a small but innovative welding magnet that utilizes a V- pad swivel along with an adjustable tab holder to create one of the handiest little welding tools to come along in some time.

The MagTabs primary use is to hold small tabs on round tubing while tack welds are made. The old way of hold tabs, and way I have done it for years is to hold the tabs with your fingers.

Holding small parts for tack welding is much safer with the MagTab. But what I did not anticipate is that it saves time too.

Usually, when something is safer, that translates to "less useful" "cumbersome" "time consuming", etc.

Not so with this little nugget.

Today, I found another use for it other than hold tabs...Holding end caps in place on square tubing.

I will be honest with you. I used to just hold them in place with a finger while I tacked. Its easy to get complacent after years of welding.

A few weeks ago, I was doing this, and the arc jumped right through my glove and gave me a deep burn on a finger tip and it hurt like a bear. Like worse than stubbing your little toe on the bed leg at 2am.

While the burns have long since healed, the memory is fresh enough that I actually turned around and drove back home on my way to the shop, after realizing I forgot my MagTab in my garage.

So back to todays video...

There are 5 different types of weld joints. ( this is a common question on written welding tests)

1. Corner Joint

2. Lap joint

3. Edge joint

4. Butt Joint

5. Tee Joint

Luckily, The first letter of each actually makes a word.

CLEBT

That is how I remember the 5 types of weld joints.

Corner joints are very common and are often welded from the outside and then are called "outside corner joints".

Lap joints are a very common weld joint too.

In this video, along with some tips on tack welding and the Magtab thingy, I show some tips for how to tig weld outside corners, and laps.

I know I have written about tack welding like a laser before, but it does work very well.

Here is a review.

Using a torch switch and with the machine set to 2t, and with zero upslope and zero downslope, I set the amperage to roughly twice what it takes to weld the joint.

then, using a sharp electrode, I position the tip of the tungsten electrode within about one electrode diameter from where I want the tack.

Then I press the torch switch for about half a second or less.

A caution.... try this on scrap metal first to get used to it.or you might blow some holes.

Once the end caps were tacked, I tig welded them all using several different tig welding techniques.

some with no filler metal

some using 309 ss filler metal

some using small circles

I used as low as 80 amps, and as much as 130 amps to weld the end caps and feet.

With a simple torch switch, and no amperage control, you can still make some adjustments by just traveling faster or slower.

GMAW-SC weld cost

by Kasi Lea Edwards
(Paulding Ohio)

My class is currently learning GMAW and we are to find out how much you would charge someone if you used .035 wire, 75-25 argon and CO2 mixture. it would be a 1/4" weld that is 3" long on a 1/4" plate and your IPM would be 225 i have to know how much it would cost for an inch of that weld. If i could get a quick answer that would be awesome or at least teach me how to get the answer so i can get these in the future would be even better. please hurry and thank you alot!

-----------------------------------------------

I am probably late with this..

what I do is charge a buck per inch.

but that is probably what the instructor is looking for.

things you need to know to figure this out are..

your travel speed

cost per cubic feet of gas

cost per inch of filler wire.

it could be a very detailed and complicated formula .

example...

if the weld is 3 inches long and travel speed is 12 inches per minute, than welding time is only .25 of a minute.

if a flow rate of 25 cfh of gas is used for 15 seconds,.. that is a tiny cost because 15 seconds is 0.0041666666666667 of an hour.

in my area gas is roughly 40 cents per cubic foot.

so .0041666666666667 x 40 cents is not even a penny.

not worth figuring unless thousands of these 3 inch welds would be done...but your instructor might just want you to figure it anyway for the sake of understanding how to calculate costs.

Filler metal is another story, you would need to know how much an inch of wire costs.

then you could use travel speed to figure how long the wire fed at 225 imp

no easy answer....thats why I use a buck per inch plus a buck per tack weld. and adjust from there.

Miller Maxstar 150 s power source?

by Andrew
(Findlay, Ohio)

Hi Jody, my company has recently purchased a maxstar 150 s. This is actually one very impressive machine using 220. However, id like to plug the 115 directly into a 3500 watt generator, is this safe for the machine to do since there is no breaker to kick off once i run above 70 amps? Any help would be great!
Thanks, Andrew

------------------------

Andrew,

I am not really sure.

later inverters like the dynasty 200 are designed to be used with generators but not too sure about the 150.

that is not much help, i know,
Here is a download link for miller manuals...

http://www.millerwelds.com/service/ownersmanuals.php

Cant figure out what current setting im on

by Andy

Wanting to know what setting im on w/out using an amp gauge on a lincoln 250ac in the back of our welding truck.

1st gear is 90 then when you adjust the fine from 10 on up what does this mean exactly? Can someone help, have heard conflicting information on how to find out "where im at" as far as amperage settings.

Its probably a lot simpler than I am making it out to be, I just need a baseline for welding root, hot-pass, and cap and Im currently struggling to find just the right amperage for my root w/out opening up my key-hole too much but enough to where im not sticking all the time.

By the way this is for 2" sch 40 pipe in 6G fixed position running downhill, 30 deg bevel, 1/16" land and gap. Either 5g or 6g tips would be great if anyone can help.

Question

I just started welding. I always wanted to learn how and my boss agreed to give me a chance to move into the fab shop where i work and get trained. its been 5 days so far and each day it seems im gettin better. like i said im new to this trade. the only problem im having is getting comfortable when i weld. i seem to always have an awkward stance pr position. when gettin ready to lay a much longer bead i have trouble finding a position where i can keep steady. any suggestions or anything like that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

btw MIG WELDING. i guess you dont be become a master craftsmen overnight?

-------------------------------------------------

you hit the nail on the head...it takes some time.

but if you really think about things, it will come quicker.

take some dry runs and pay attention to body position.

sometimes its best to be slightly uncomfortable at the beginning of a weld so that you move into a comfortable position during the weld...you can weld longer that way.

thats where taking the dry runs helps while you pay attention and think about how your arms, hands, and body moves or how you pivot on elbows, etc.

also another tip is to relax, and dont hold the gun any tighter that you need to to be steady.

heat for open butt roots

by steve

My questions is setting the heat. Ii know for 1/8 tig rod on carbon it usually goes nice at 100the amps on my lincoln. My question is what do you yourself look for when checking the amps for a root. Melt into a hot puddle instantly, slowly fan out to a puddle? Machines weld differently im just wondering what's a good practice for the heat on a root pass considering the gap there. Its not a good idea to test heat on bevels so ........

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one thing you can do is get a piece of 1/4" scrap..
with your lincoln machine set to 100 amps , light up and count to 3 seconds.

measure the spot.
thats your reference for other machines.

in gerneral, i also find that if i dont get the puddle i want at max pedal within 3 seconds, the amps are too low.