Friday, October 28, 2011

shedule 40 2g tig weld test

I have enormous amounts of mig experience.I took two classes and got certs for 2,3,4G in smaw and fcaw.Any clue or thoughts on how to approach a schedule 40 2G s.s. or other tig weld test?I am currently relocating to a new area and that is one of their "big deal passing"

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like anything, you will just need to get some seat time and practice.

having as much mig experience as you do, just getting an experienced hand to walk you thru the test will probably get you their quick.

if you have never done tig or stainless before, there are things that are very important that you will not automatically know.
like how to purge the inside, snipping the wire, etc. but it will taking doing it to understand and learn how.

these days, it can be tough finding a welding school that has stainless pipe on hand. But if you can get your own pipe, a local welding school might be an option.

How to Tig Weld Steel

tig finger This weeks video is Since last weeks video was building a stand for a Porter Cable Portaband, I thought maybe I would show how to tig weld end caps and feet on the stand.

I cut the end caps using the same portaband saw I was building a stand for.

Using a cheap dial caliper, I measured the inside diameter of the square tubing and added about .100" so that there would be some overlap. I cut all the end caps out of cold rolled 11 gauge sheet.

I like to tig weld outside corner joints. They are easy fun and sometimes do not even need any filler metal.

For this job, I used a little "trick" welding magnet tool called a MagTab.

Its made by Stronghand tools and you can get it from Amazon.com, Northern tool, Summit Racing, Airgas, and a bunch of other places.

I just checked on the price and while it was only about 10 dollars a year ago, The price of magnets has been rising so I think it costs about 13 dollars now.

It is a small but innovative welding magnet that utilizes a V- pad swivel along with an adjustable tab holder to create one of the handiest little welding tools to come along in some time.

The MagTabs primary use is to hold small tabs on round tubing while tack welds are made. The old way of hold tabs, and way I have done it for years is to hold the tabs with your fingers.

Holding small parts for tack welding is much safer with the MagTab. But what I did not anticipate is that it saves time too.

Usually, when something is safer, that translates to "less useful" "cumbersome" "time consuming", etc.

Not so with this little nugget.

Today, I found another use for it other than hold tabs...Holding end caps in place on square tubing.

I will be honest with you. I used to just hold them in place with a finger while I tacked. Its easy to get complacent after years of welding.

A few weeks ago, I was doing this, and the arc jumped right through my glove and gave me a deep burn on a finger tip and it hurt like a bear. Like worse than stubbing your little toe on the bed leg at 2am.

While the burns have long since healed, the memory is fresh enough that I actually turned around and drove back home on my way to the shop, after realizing I forgot my MagTab in my garage.

So back to todays video...

There are 5 different types of weld joints. ( this is a common question on written welding tests)

1. Corner Joint

2. Lap joint

3. Edge joint

4. Butt Joint

5. Tee Joint

Luckily, The first letter of each actually makes a word.

CLEBT

That is how I remember the 5 types of weld joints.

Corner joints are very common and are often welded from the outside and then are called "outside corner joints".

Lap joints are a very common weld joint too.

In this video, along with some tips on tack welding and the Magtab thingy, I show some tips for how to tig weld outside corners, and laps.

I know I have written about tack welding like a laser before, but it does work very well.

Here is a review.

Using a torch switch and with the machine set to 2t, and with zero upslope and zero downslope, I set the amperage to roughly twice what it takes to weld the joint.

then, using a sharp electrode, I position the tip of the tungsten electrode within about one electrode diameter from where I want the tack.

Then I press the torch switch for about half a second or less.

A caution.... try this on scrap metal first to get used to it.or you might blow some holes.

Once the end caps were tacked, I tig welded them all using several different tig welding techniques.

some with no filler metal

some using 309 ss filler metal

some using small circles

I used as low as 80 amps, and as much as 130 amps to weld the end caps and feet.

With a simple torch switch, and no amperage control, you can still make some adjustments by just traveling faster or slower.

tig finger heatshield

GMAW-SC weld cost

by Kasi Lea Edwards
(Paulding Ohio)

My class is currently learning GMAW and we are to find out how much you would charge someone if you used .035 wire, 75-25 argon and CO2 mixture. it would be a 1/4" weld that is 3" long on a 1/4" plate and your IPM would be 225 i have to know how much it would cost for an inch of that weld. If i could get a quick answer that would be awesome or at least teach me how to get the answer so i can get these in the future would be even better. please hurry and thank you alot!

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I am probably late with this..

what I do is charge a buck per inch.

but that is probably what the instructor is looking for.

things you need to know to figure this out are..

your travel speed

cost per cubic feet of gas

cost per inch of filler wire.

it could be a very detailed and complicated formula .

example...

if the weld is 3 inches long and travel speed is 12 inches per minute, than welding time is only .25 of a minute.

if a flow rate of 25 cfh of gas is used for 15 seconds,.. that is a tiny cost because 15 seconds is 0.0041666666666667 of an hour.

in my area gas is roughly 40 cents per cubic foot.

so .0041666666666667 x 40 cents is not even a penny.

not worth figuring unless thousands of these 3 inch welds would be done...but your instructor might just want you to figure it anyway for the sake of understanding how to calculate costs.

Filler metal is another story, you would need to know how much an inch of wire costs.

then you could use travel speed to figure how long the wire fed at 225 imp

no easy answer....thats why I use a buck per inch plus a buck per tack weld. and adjust from there.

Miller Maxstar 150 s power source?

by Andrew
(Findlay, Ohio)

Hi Jody, my company has recently purchased a maxstar 150 s. This is actually one very impressive machine using 220. However, id like to plug the 115 directly into a 3500 watt generator, is this safe for the machine to do since there is no breaker to kick off once i run above 70 amps? Any help would be great!
Thanks, Andrew

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Andrew,

I am not really sure.

later inverters like the dynasty 200 are designed to be used with generators but not too sure about the 150.

that is not much help, i know,
Here is a download link for miller manuals...

http://www.millerwelds.com/service/ownersmanuals.php

Cant figure out what current setting im on

by Andy

Wanting to know what setting im on w/out using an amp gauge on a lincoln 250ac in the back of our welding truck.

1st gear is 90 then when you adjust the fine from 10 on up what does this mean exactly? Can someone help, have heard conflicting information on how to find out "where im at" as far as amperage settings.

Its probably a lot simpler than I am making it out to be, I just need a baseline for welding root, hot-pass, and cap and Im currently struggling to find just the right amperage for my root w/out opening up my key-hole too much but enough to where im not sticking all the time.

By the way this is for 2" sch 40 pipe in 6G fixed position running downhill, 30 deg bevel, 1/16" land and gap. Either 5g or 6g tips would be great if anyone can help.

Thursday, October 27, 2011

Question

I just started welding. I always wanted to learn how and my boss agreed to give me a chance to move into the fab shop where i work and get trained. its been 5 days so far and each day it seems im gettin better. like i said im new to this trade. the only problem im having is getting comfortable when i weld. i seem to always have an awkward stance pr position. when gettin ready to lay a much longer bead i have trouble finding a position where i can keep steady. any suggestions or anything like that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

btw MIG WELDING. i guess you dont be become a master craftsmen overnight?

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you hit the nail on the head...it takes some time.

but if you really think about things, it will come quicker.

take some dry runs and pay attention to body position.

sometimes its best to be slightly uncomfortable at the beginning of a weld so that you move into a comfortable position during the weld...you can weld longer that way.

thats where taking the dry runs helps while you pay attention and think about how your arms, hands, and body moves or how you pivot on elbows, etc.

also another tip is to relax, and dont hold the gun any tighter that you need to to be steady.

heat for open butt roots

by steve

My questions is setting the heat. Ii know for 1/8 tig rod on carbon it usually goes nice at 100the amps on my lincoln. My question is what do you yourself look for when checking the amps for a root. Melt into a hot puddle instantly, slowly fan out to a puddle? Machines weld differently im just wondering what's a good practice for the heat on a root pass considering the gap there. Its not a good idea to test heat on bevels so ........

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one thing you can do is get a piece of 1/4" scrap..
with your lincoln machine set to 100 amps , light up and count to 3 seconds.

measure the spot.
thats your reference for other machines.

in gerneral, i also find that if i dont get the puddle i want at max pedal within 3 seconds, the amps are too low.